How to build a wood fence gate? with our article, we’ll guide you step-by-step on how to build a wood fence gate.
Key Takeaways
- When building a wood fence gate, the first step is to choose a suitable location and consider all aspects before proceeding.
- The spacing between wooden fence posts should not be further than 8 feet apart to avoid sagging and maximize common-length lumber.
- It is important to mix and pour concrete into the post holes to anchor them in place and prevent them from shifting.
- Adding diagonal cross braces to the gate frame helps keep the gate square and prevents sagging.
- Checking the swing clearance of the gate and adjusting it accordingly is crucial, and latch hardware should be installed after adding slats to the fence.
How To Build A Wood Fence Gate
Step 1: Preparations
Choosing a location for your fence should be your first step.
As opposed to being erected along a property line, this fence had to be built across a little side yard, so I really had a few options for where it should go. The worst thing to do would be to put a fence in a location that you ultimately dislike without giving it any thought and without taking everything into account.
If there are underground utilities where you live, you must contact the buried utility authority to have them label any underground lines, and then you must abide by whatever excavation instructions they give.
Step 2: Dig Holes, Plumb Post
To avoid sagging and to make the most of common-length lumber, wooden fence posts should typically not be spaced further apart than 8 feet. For mine, the spacing between the posts was determined by the size of my gate, which I wanted to be 36 inches wide.
I dug the holes for my end posts, and then I temporarily anchored them in perfectly straight position using leftover 2×4 boards. As seen in the photographs, this was accomplished using stakes and screws. The posts are 4×4 pressure-treated timbers, and the later-added slats are cedar fence slats.
Step 3: Concrete
I mixed concrete and poured it into the post holes. I took away the 2×4 supports after a few days.
Step 4: A Small Trick
I used the short length of this fence to my advantage to help me align all of the posts correctly.
The internal poles were given holes to be placed in, after which they were piped and secured with supports. These holes were then filled with concrete.
Step 5: Cross Part
After setting the posts in place with cement, I took out the supports and cut the post tops to make them all level. Exterior grade screws were used to attach the cross parts.
Step 6: The Gate
The steps that follow demonstrate how I constructed and put in the solid little gate.
Step 7: Build The Gate
To build the gate, a 2×4 external frame was first constructed and fastened together using exterior screws that were driven into pre-drilled and countersunk holes.
Then came a diagonal cross brace. By doing this, the gate will remain square and stop sagging. Similar diagonal cross-braces must constantly slope downward toward the lower hinge. For more information, refer to the photos’ notes.
My gate had a tiny warp, so I added a second brace to correct it.
Step 8: Mount The Gate
To hold the hinges I was using, some extra boards were added as necessary to the gate and fence posts. Using a few paint stirrers as makeshift shims to create a small standoff on the hinge side, the gate was propped into place and clamped.
It’s better to leave a small gap on the hinge side when installing the hinges than to jam the gate and post up against the hinges due to the natural movement of wood and to ensure that the gate always closes completely without binding.
Step 9: Add Fence Slats
Building a fence becomes exciting at this point. The majority of the difficult labor has been completed.
To mark the location of the slat tops, I strung a knot over the top of the fence. Depending on your needs and preferences, some fences are built with level tops while others follow the landscape.
Step 10: Add Hinges
This is where the hinges were added. Simple gate hinges from Home Depot that require lag screws for installation are what these are.
The desired locations for the screws were marked, pilot holes were drilled, and the hinges were carefully placed. A socket wrench was used to assemble the screws.
Step 11: Check and Adjust Clearance
Checking the swing clearance of the gate is a good idea right now. Mine opened, however it was a snug fit and somewhat cinched.
Just enough material was removed from the gate frame using a belt sander to allow for the necessary clearance.
Step 12: Install Latch Hardware
It was necessary to add some extra support boards, which involved careful routing and a lot of boring holes with spade bits. I finally had a handle and latch in place and operating properly after some minor adjustments.
Step 13: Adding Slats and Done! You Did it!
I used cedar fence slats and have no intention of giving them any sort of finish. Wood fences like this only persist for a few years in my somewhat dry climate before being judged to be too unsightly and being torn down.
How Interested, rght? Do you want to try it now?
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