Plan out the electrical wire routing before running electricity to a shed or outside structure. The new circuit wire should then be run to the exterior of the house and a GFCI outlet added to the electrical panel of the house. Create a trench for your electrical cable, then build conduit. Finally, runing electricity cable into the shed through the conduit. Test all connections before backfilling the trench.
You will require the following equipment and supplies to successfully running electricity to your shed:
1. Safety Equipment (Glasses, gloves, boots, etc.)
2. Tape Measure
3. UF-B electrical cable
4. PVC Conduit
5. PVC Conduit Cement / Glue
6. GFCI Outlet
7. Shovel / Post Hole Digger
- Determine the outbuilding’s expected power requirements. Is 120 volts sufficient, or will 240 volts be required? What types of electrical loads can be expected? This defines the size of the feed cable as well as the size of the new circuit breaker required at the house’s main panel. The shed requires 240 volts and 60 amps.
- Locate the main panel of the house and check to see if there is enough power coming in to meet the needs of the outbuilding and if there is still room to add the new circuit breaker.
- The wiring connections are made simpler by putting a subpanel near to the primary breaker for the house.
- It’s time to dig the trench outside. Scott dials 811, the national Call Before You Dig hotline, before starting an earthwork. This service dispatches a professional to detect and mark any existing underground utilities in order to prevent them from being harmed by digging. This service is not only free, but it is also mandated by law.
- With a trenching machine, you can dig a trench much more quickly such that it meets code requirements for being at least 18 inches below the surface (for 240v power). However, even this machine can’t pass through ledge or bedrock, thus a subsequent step will be necessary here in the future that there’s underground power.
- A 2 inch thick coating of concrete is spread over the conduit, sand, and warning tape in one point where the trencher ran into ledge and was unable to dig down far enough.
The trench is backfilled with the dirt from the excavation after all the conduit has been placed. The excavation can be concealed by adding grass seed, mulch straw, water, and time.
- Running an electrician’s fish tape between the two ends of the pipe is the first step in getting the wires inside. It helps to have a helper in this situation, in this case the homeowner, who can tell when the fish tape reaches the far end.
Scott threads the fish tape through the conduit, fastens a piece of 14 inch rope to the end, and then pulls the rope back to the opposite end.
- The use of individual conductors, rather than sheathed cable, is required by code for conduit (typical house wiring where two or three conductors plus a ground wire are wrapped together in an outer shell). Two 120v conductors, one neutral, and a ground are linked to the rope in this instance and hauled into the conduit because it is a 240v circuit. To provide the requisite 60 amps, all wires are thick, 6-gauge.
- The conduit’s entry point through the wall inside the shed has a junction box attached to it. The various conduit wires are connected to a single gauge non-metallic encased cable since running to the new sub-panel is simpler within the shed. Special connections with screw-clamps are utilized with this heavy-gauge wire.
- In contrast to the main panel in the house, where they hook together, the ground and neutral terminals are separated in the sub-panel. The ground terminals are connected to a separate ground rod that is buried outside the shed.
- One hot wire is connected to each bus bar, while the ground and neutral wires are connected to the appropriate terminals.
- The subpanel is equipped with breakers and a surge-suppressor, and the shed is wired using conventional interior wiring methods.
- Just like it was done at the shed, the wires from the conduit are connected to wires from non-metallic sheathed cable in a junction box at home. The connection continues from there to the new panel, which was put in place below the primary panel that was already there. A 60 double-pole breaker is installed, and the shed can be powered up.
Now you don’t need to bother anymore about how running electricity to the warehouse because the answer is in this article for more details, we have also included related links. Happy reading, hopefully useful!